Lexington's Trusted Electrician
Residential Repairs, Upgrades & Installations
35+ Years Experience

Warning signs include: burn marks or scorching around the panel, a burning smell near the electrical panel, breakers that frequently trip, flickering lights throughout the house, a panel that feels hot to the touch, buzzing or crackling sounds, and rust or corrosion. If your panel is a Federal Pacific, Zinsco, or Pushmatic brand — or if it's over 25 years old — it should be inspected immediately regardless of visible symptoms.

Federal Pacific Electric (FPE) panels were installed in millions of homes from the 1950s through the 1980s. Their breakers fail to trip up to 60% of the time during an overload. When there's a problem, instead of the breaker cutting power, wires keep heating up inside your walls. Many insurance companies refuse to cover homes with FPE panels. If your panel says "Federal Pacific" or "FPE," replacement isn't optional — it's urgent.

Yes. Zinsco panels (also sold as Sylvania) have a well-documented history of breaker failure. The aluminum bus bar corrodes over time, and breakers can literally melt and fuse to it — meaning they'll never trip, even under a dead short. We've opened Zinsco panels where breakers were welded in place. These are a known fire risk and should be replaced immediately. We find them regularly in older Lexington and Burlington homes built in the 1960s and 1970s.

If your home has a 100-amp panel and you notice: breakers tripping when you run multiple appliances, lights dimming when the AC kicks on, reliance on power strips and extension cords, or you're planning to add an EV charger, hot tub, or home addition — you likely need a 200-amp upgrade. Modern homes with central air, electric appliances, and home offices draw more power than 100-amp service can safely deliver. A 200-amp upgrade also increases home resale value.

A panel upgrade starts with a site evaluation. We pull the permit, then on installation day we disconnect your existing panel, install the new 200-amp panel and breakers, upgrade the meter socket if needed, run new grounding per current code, and reconnect all circuits. The utility company then upgrades the service drop. Once inspected and approved by the town, you're set. Most residential upgrades take one full day, with the utility connection and inspection following within days.

The physical panel swap takes one full business day. After that, Eversource needs to upgrade the service line — that can take a few days to a week. Then the town inspector does the final approval. From start to fully complete, figure about 1-2 weeks. Your power is back on the same day we do the install. The utility and inspection steps happen after your home already has the new panel running safely.

Absolutely. A panel upgrade requires an electrical permit from your local building department. The utility company also requires a permit before they'll upgrade the service line. We handle all permits and coordinate with the inspector so you don't deal with any paperwork. Any electrician who offers to do a panel swap without a permit is cutting corners — and putting your home and insurance coverage at risk.

Replace it. Fuse boxes are obsolete for modern electrical loads. They're often undersized (typically 60 amps), lack grounding, and can't accommodate AFCI/GFCI protection. Many have had oversized fuses installed over the years — a 30-amp fuse where a 15-amp should be — which eliminates the overcurrent protection entirely.

For home use, a Level 2 charger (240-volt) is what we recommend. Level 1 trickle-charges off a standard 120-volt outlet and adds only 3-5 miles of range per hour. Level 2 chargers deliver 25-40 miles per hour, fully charging most EVs overnight. Popular models we install include ChargePoint, JuiceBox, Tesla Wall Connector, and Grizzl-E. We'll help you choose the right one based on your vehicle, panel capacity, and parking setup.

It depends on your panel's amperage and open slots. A 200-amp panel with two open breaker slots can typically accommodate a 50-amp EV charger circuit. A 100-amp panel might be tight depending on your home's existing electrical load. We perform a load calculation — required by code — to determine if your panel can safely support the additional circuit.

A standard Level 2 EV charger installation where the panel is near the garage and has capacity takes about 3-5 hours. If your panel is on the opposite side of the house or we need to run conduit through finished spaces, it could take a full day. We leave your garage clean and your charger working perfectly — and we handle the permit and inspection.

Yes. All modern Level 2 chargers use the J1772 standard connector, which works with every EV sold in North America except Tesla — and Tesla includes a J1772 adapter with every vehicle. Tesla's own Wall Connector uses a proprietary plug for Tesla vehicles. The key question isn't the car brand — it's whether your electrical panel has the capacity.

Yes, though multi-unit properties have additional considerations: HOA/condo association approval, shared vs. dedicated parking, electrical capacity of the building's service, metering (tenant vs. common area), and conduit routing. The state's right to charge law helps in many situations.

Key signs include: flickering or dimming lights, frequently tripping breakers, buzzing or sizzling sounds from outlets or switches, burning smell near outlets, outlets or switches that feel warm to the touch, discolored or scorched outlet covers, visible frayed or cloth-covered wiring, needing extension cords, and two-prong ungrounded outlets. If your home was built before 1970 and has never been rewired, you likely have outdated wiring that should be evaluated.

Knob-and-tube (K&T) wiring was the standard from about 1880 through the 1930s. It uses ceramic knobs and tubes to run individual wires through open air in wall cavities. Dangers: no ground wire, rubber/cloth insulation that deteriorates and crumbles over time, not designed for modern appliance loads, and improper splices from previous owners. K&T is uninsurable with many carriers. We still find active knob-and-tube in older Lexington, Winchester, and Arlington homes.

Aluminum wiring was widely used from 1965 to 1973 as a cheaper alternative to copper. The problem: aluminum expands and contracts more than copper when heated, loosening connections over time. Loose connections create resistance, which generates heat — leading to arcing and fire. Modern remediation involves either complete rewiring with copper or installing special COPALUM or AlumiConn connectors at every termination.

A burnt or blackened outlet is almost always caused by a loose internal connection creating electrical arcing. When a wire isn't making solid contact with the outlet terminal, electricity jumps the gap — creating heat, sparks, and carbon buildup. If you see a burnt outlet, stop using it immediately and call us. This is more common than people think and a genuine fire hazard.

Flickering isolated to one room usually points to a loose connection somewhere on that circuit — at an outlet, switch, junction box, or even the breaker itself. Single-room flickering shouldn't be ignored — loose connections generate heat and are a leading cause of electrical fires.

First: if you smell burning plastic or a fish-like odor from an outlet, switch, or wall — turn off the breaker to that circuit immediately if you know which one it is. If the smell is strong or you see smoke, call 911. Electrical fires smolder inside walls for hours before flames appear. Once immediate danger is addressed, call us.

Space heaters draw massive current — typically 1,500 watts (12.5 amps), nearly the full capacity of a 15-amp circuit. If anything else is on that same circuit, you'll exceed the breaker's rating and it will trip. This is the breaker doing its job. The real fix is either dedicating a circuit to the heater or installing a permanent heating solution on its own circuit.

Circuit breakers fail from: age (25-30 year typical lifespan), repeated tripping (each trip slightly degrades the mechanism), corrosion from moisture, loose connections at the bus bar causing heat damage, and manufacturing defects (Federal Pacific, Zinsco). If you have a breaker that feels spongy, won't stay reset, or is hot to the touch, don't keep trying to reset it — call us.

In older Lexington-area homes we commonly find: missing GFCI protection in bathrooms and kitchens, double-tapped breakers, overloaded junction boxes, improper splices outside junction boxes, ungrounded three-prong outlets, missing AFCI protection, reversed polarity outlets, and damaged cable connectors. These aren't just technical violations — many are fire and shock hazards.

Yes — we recommend them for every home. A whole-home surge protector installs at your electrical panel and protects every circuit from voltage spikes. Power strips only protect what's plugged into them. A whole-home unit protects your HVAC, refrigerator, washer/dryer, electronics, LED lighting, and smart home devices. Installation takes under an hour.

GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) outlets shut off power within milliseconds if they detect current leaking to ground — preventing electrocution. Code requires GFCI in: bathrooms, kitchen countertop outlets, garages, unfinished basements, crawl spaces, outdoor outlets, laundry areas, and any outlet within 6 feet of a sink.

GFCI protects people from shock — it detects current leaking to ground. AFCI (Arc Fault) protects your home from fire — it detects dangerous electrical arcing inside wiring. Think of GFCI as protection for you, AFCI as protection for your property. During panel upgrades and rewiring, we bring everything up to current AFCI/GFCI requirements.

Two main options: a portable generator with a manual transfer switch powers select circuits like fridge, furnace, and a few lights. A standby generator with automatic transfer switch powers your entire home and starts automatically within seconds of an outage. For most Lexington homeowners, a standby unit from Generac or Kohler in the 18-26kW range is ideal.

A standby generator installation typically takes 2-3 full days: concrete pad, transfer switch at the panel, equipment placement, wiring, gas line connection (by a licensed plumber — we coordinate), startup, and testing. We handle every step from permits to final inspection.

Yes. Standby generators run a weekly self-test to confirm readiness. Annual maintenance is recommended: oil change, air filter, spark plug inspection, battery test, and load bank testing. Most manufacturers require yearly service to maintain warranty. A well-maintained standby generator should last 20-30 years.

Hot tub wiring requires a dedicated 240-volt GFCI-protected circuit, typically 50 or 60 amps depending on the spa model. We run the circuit from your panel to a GFCI disconnect box mounted at least 5 feet from the water, then to the spa itself. This is not DIY territory — improper installation can be lethal. We handle the permit, installation, and inspection.

Pool electrical is extensive and heavily regulated by code: a dedicated circuit for the pump motor, bonding of all metal components (pool shell, ladder, diving board, fence), GFCI protection for all outlets within 20 feet, underwater lighting circuits, and possibly a subpanel. Pool wiring mistakes can be fatal — there's zero margin for error.

In many cases, yes. We use fish tapes and flexible drill bits to run wire through wall cavities from the attic or basement without opening walls. For first-floor rooms above an unfinished basement, it's often straightforward. The limiting factors are fire blocks, insulation, and framing.

Code says no point along a wall should be more than 6 feet from an outlet (12 feet between outlets). Practically, this means most rooms should have an outlet every 8-12 feet along each wall. Kitchens need outlets every 4 feet of countertop. Many older Lexington homes were built with far fewer outlets than modern code requires.

Absolutely — this is one of our most common requests. We install ultra-thin LED wafer lights (also called canless recessed lights) that require only a small hole in the ceiling and minimal clearance above. They're IC-rated so they can be safely covered by insulation. Most room installations are done in a day with minimal disruption.

Yes. We run a new circuit or extend an existing one to the ceiling location, install a fan-rated ceiling box (standard light boxes can't support a fan's weight and vibration), and wire it to a switch. If there's attic access above, it's straightforward.

Yes. Massachusetts code requires hardwired interconnected smoke and CO detectors in specific locations: inside each bedroom, outside sleeping areas, and at least one per floor including the basement. When one alarm triggers, they all sound. Battery-only detectors don't meet current code for most situations.

We handle all outdoor electrical: landscape lighting, outdoor GFCI outlets, post lights and driveway lighting, pool and spa wiring, hot tub circuits, outdoor kitchens, shed and garage subpanels, EV charger installation on exterior walls, exterior security lighting with motion sensors, holiday light circuits, and generator installations.

Yes. When adding a home addition, detached garage, workshop, or in-law apartment, running a subpanel is almost always the right approach. We size the subpanel to the load, run the feeder cable, install proper grounding (detached structures need their own ground rod), and tie it into the main panel. All permitted and inspected.

Yes — kitchen and bathroom remodels are a big part of our work. Kitchens require dedicated circuits for appliances, GFCI-protected countertop outlets every 4 feet, under-cabinet lighting, and island outlets. Bathrooms need GFCI outlets, vanity lighting, exhaust fan circuits, and heated floor wiring. We coordinate with your contractor and handle all permits.

Yes. Under-cabinet LED tape lighting and puck lights are popular and transform a kitchen's look and functionality. We can hardwire them to a switch or install them with a plug-in transformer and in-line dimmer. For accent lighting — toe-kick lights, cove lighting, or display cabinet lighting — we design and install custom solutions.

Absolutely. We install Lutron dimmers — the industry standard — for LED, CFL, incandescent, and halogen loads. LED dimming requires compatible dimmers, and we use Lutron's LED compatibility tool to match bulbs to dimmers so you get smooth dimming without flicker or buzz.

Yes — and with so many people working from home, this is one of our most requested services. A dedicated 20-amp circuit with multiple outlets gives your computer equipment, monitors, printers, and networking gear its own clean power without sharing with other rooms. We can also install USB-integrated outlets for convenient device charging.

Yes, we install electric radiant floor heat systems, most commonly in bathrooms and kitchens. These systems use heating cables or mats embedded in thin-set mortar under tile. A properly installed radiant floor system transforms a cold tile bathroom into one of the most comfortable rooms in the house — great for New England winters.

We handle the electrical infrastructure for smart homes: installing smart switches (Lutron Caséta, Leviton), smart outlets, hardwired smart thermostats (Nest, Ecobee), video doorbell wiring, smart smoke/CO detectors, smart panel monitoring devices, and structured wiring for whole-home automation.

Yes. A manual transfer switch lets you safely connect a portable generator to selected circuits during an outage — no extension cords through windows. We install the transfer switch at your panel, run the generator inlet to an exterior location, and label which circuits are on generator backup. Installation is typically a one-day job.

Licensed electrician rates in the Lexington area typically range from $85-150 per hour. Small jobs like outlet replacement have a minimum service charge. Larger projects — panel upgrades, rewiring, EV charger installation — are quoted as flat rates after we see the scope of work. For an exact quote, call (617) 435-1071.

Whole-home rewiring costs vary widely based on home size, number of stories, accessibility, and occupancy during work. In our service area, a complete rewire typically ranges from $8,000 to $30,000+. We provide detailed quotes after a walkthrough — this isn't something you can price over the phone accurately.

We proudly serve Lexington, Burlington, Woburn, Winchester, Arlington, Belmont, Bedford, Concord, Lincoln, Weston, Waltham, and surrounding Middlesex County towns. Our focused service area means faster response times and deep familiarity with the housing stock and local codes in these communities.

We're centrally located at 49 Lexington Street in Burlington — that puts us within 10-20 minutes of most homes in our service area. For urgent issues (burning smell, sparking, partial power loss), we prioritize same-day response whenever possible. Standard service calls are typically scheduled within 2-3 business days.

Yes — and we have extensive experience with them. Lexington has some of the most beautiful historic homes in Massachusetts, many dating from the 1700s and 1800s. These homes present unique electrical challenges: knob-and-tube wiring, lath-and-plaster walls, limited stud cavity space, and the need to preserve historic details while meeting modern code.

Yes. Massachusetts follows the National Electrical Code (NEC) with state-specific amendments, and individual towns may have additional requirements. We pull permits regularly in Lexington, Burlington, Woburn, Winchester, Arlington, and surrounding towns. We know the inspectors and what they look for.

Yes. We respond to urgent electrical calls promptly — burning smells, sparking outlets, partial or full power loss, water-related electrical issues, and storm damage. While we're not a 24/7 call center, we prioritize safety-related issues and strive for same-day response. If you smell burning or see sparks, call (617) 435-1071 immediately.

We recommend a comprehensive inspection: when buying a home (especially built before 1990), every 10 years as routine maintenance, when adding major appliances, after any flood or storm damage, and if you notice any warning signs. Given the age of housing stock in Lexington, homes 30+ years old should be a priority.

Massachusetts allows homeowners to do electrical work on their own primary residence only if they pull a homeowner's permit, pass an inspection, and the work meets code. In practice, most homeowners underestimate the complexity. We've fixed countless DIY electrical mistakes. If you're not 100% confident, it's safer to have it done right by a licensed electrician.

A licensed electrician has completed years of apprenticeship, passed rigorous exams, carries liability insurance, pulls permits, and their work is inspected by the town. A handyman cannot legally perform electrical work in Massachusetts beyond the most basic tasks. Hiring an unlicensed person can void your home insurance, create hazards, and cost far more to fix later.

Yes. Frank J. O'Reilly is a licensed Master Electrician in the Commonwealth of Massachusetts. We carry full liability insurance and workers' compensation coverage. Our license can be verified through the Massachusetts Board of State Examiners of Electricians. Every job that requires a permit gets one, no exceptions.

Frank personally oversees every project and is on-site for all work. For larger jobs — panel upgrades, rewires, generator installs — he brings one or more licensed journeyman electricians. For smaller service calls, Frank handles them directly. You get a master electrician's oversight on every job, not a trainee dispatched from a call center.

Absolutely. We treat your home with respect. We use drop cloths in work areas, wear shoe covers when appropriate, and clean up all debris — wire clippings, drywall dust, packaging, everything. When we leave, the only evidence we were there is the quality electrical work.

When you call a national chain, you get a dispatcher. When you call us, you get Frank — a master electrician who lives and works in your community. We don't have sales quotas or pushy upselling. We give honest assessments, fair pricing, and quality work that passes inspection the first time. Our 49+ Google reviews at 4.9 stars come from real neighbors in Lexington, Burlington, and surrounding towns.

Yes, we work with homeowners and contractors on basement finishing electrical. This includes: recessed lighting layout and installation, outlet placement per code, GFCI protection, AFCI protection, smoke and CO detector wiring, dedicated circuits for home theater or gym equipment, and egress window well outlets.